Monday 'Blues'

Yesterday was a pretty historic moment for me. After about 6 years of driving, I got my first traffic ticket! Sure, I've had a couple of minor accidents and stuff, but never a ticket. Of course, that's not to say that I am an angel on Lahore's roads, but hey, some of us know when to watch out for a cop! ;)

Sadly, though, the ticket wasn't for a regular violation per se, but for speaking on a cell phone while driving. Now, I know that's a rule in most parts of the world, but I was (pleasantly?) surprised to know that the new boys in blue here are doing something to curb this threat to public safety.

And so, like every other time, I see a slow moving cop bike, in order to exhibit my pure confidence of a good driver, I change lanes and overtake him, while discussing matters of the world with a friend over the phone. The next thing I know is the same bike overtaking me and signalling me to pull over. Sirens all over, within 5 seconds there are 5 bikers all around me. For a brief moment seeing two of them ahead of me, one one each side and one behind, I felt quite important, indeed! That was all until the cop in front, who I am sure was grudged cos of the earlier overtaking, proceeds to slam a heavy duty fine on me! Sigh.. But indeed I did feel the presence of mind to take a cell phone picture through my windshield as it happened!

But in all of that, I don't feel pissed, but quite happy to be seeing these guys do their job and do it professionally. Earlier, I remember, if you were pulled over, it would lead to a long conversation with a ponchy old guy at the end of which you knew money would be changing hands, and of course in the direction unpleasant to you. So I'm impressed to be seeing these new young no-nonsense, yet pleasant natured, well trained professionals taking care of this city.

And yea, I reckon I'm going to invest in a bluetooth handfree kit now since catching up with people remains the top way of avoiding the frustation that results from the insane Lahore driving.

The Truth Unfolds.. Marginally..

Interesting pieces of news on the media today. Surely, all that invoke a deep sense of disturbance, yet keep me guessing on the camp I should be rooting for or even believing..

Gujrat Riots - Report Shows Confessions from Government Officials

The famous website Tehelka.com that unmasked internal corruption in the government's ranks a few years ago, has now published a report claiming that the 2002 Gujrat riots that killed hoards of people, was in fact a coordinated genocide, within which elements of the then ruling party BJP were accomplice to.

This event is close to me, not as much on ideological grounds, but because some close friends were deeply affected. I love my Indian friends more than most, and it sickens me to even consider the possibility of any government doing such a thing.

Compelling Question 1: Could it, in fact, have been this way, or is it the current government's stunt to kill competition?
Compelling Question 2: How is it that BBCnews.com failed to make front page space on this today?
Hope: It doesn't lead to further religious fragmentation in India. The country has more muslims in absolute numbers, there there are in Pakistan!

The Karachi Blasts - Playing the Game

There appears to be a pretty big blame game going on in Pakistan as regards the blasts. It appears that political forces are using this horrific event, that has killed more people in an instant - almost 200 - than any single such incident in Pakistan's history, to leverage their own interests. Benazir is blaming three individuals in the government - Chief Minister of Punjab, Head of Intelligence Bureau and the Man that probed the corruption cases against her, as likely suspects. The G-men believe that not only is that a ridiculous accusation, but that Benazir coordinated the events to gain public sympathy and destabilize the government. At a time when Musharraf 'appears' to be trying to consolidate the two parties in an effort to form a coalition government, this brings a major twist to an already complex situation.

Compelling Question 1: Why don't we have a Tehelka.com of our own in Pakistan?
Compelling Question 2: What is the top level game here?
Hope: That neither of these allegations is true. It's inexcusable if either of these parties have shed so much blood of their own people in a fucking political stunt! (Excuse my french..)

Wheeler's view on their 'Sport of Passion'

In lieu of the recent crackdown on these fellows, there was a report on TV today on wheeler's, those kids on their motorbikes speeding around busy roads on one wheel (Wheelies). They talked about how these guys felt it was a sport, that they got a kick out of it, that even two cop cars and 10 cop bikes couldn't catch them, that most lives were lost when cops chased them, so they should (!), and that if they are to be taken off the roads they should legalize and 'coordinate' the sport and let people compete on national and international level.

I had long forgotten the story when en route to college one day three years ago, I witnessed a wheeler slip, hit the car behind him, and flew to the wrong side of the road only to be crushed by a vehicle on the other side.. This reminder was unnecessary.

Compelling Question: Sport or Madness?
Hope: for our roads to be safer.

Rubik's Cube

As I stumbled upon Andrew's MySpace Page (Intern from the UK, working in Karachi), which is a very highly recommended read (Great Humor and a good source of a foreigner's perspective on day to day Pakistan, especially on recent events), I realized how much I had taken for granted the crazy variety of perspectives in the MC house where I spent a year with people from all over the world. Turns out that outside of that environment, one could very easily live an entire life here within a bubble of friends that think in a fairly similar manner.

Perhaps one of the reasons why it hasn't really hit that hard is because of the frequency with which friends from all over the world stay in touch (thank you facebook, skype, gtalk, msn..). However, on closer inspection, I realized that within the confines of my own house, exist a plethora of different perspectives coming from a multitude of different background experiences from mine - aka family. In a way the experience is very similar to being the only Pakistani is an apartment in Karachi that could give the United Colors of Benetton a run for their money! (Excuse the political incorrectness). Maybe its time to stop feeling out of place and appreciate this kind of diversity!

In other news, the gray hair has a new friend of his kind. I think I should shave my head.

Freaked!!!

Sorry about drastically shifting the mood of the posts, but I am currently in great shock and bordering on extreme depression!!

Just looked into the mirror to see a gray hair staring back at me, from the right side of my temple. Oh NoOoO!

In an effort to relieve myself off this predicament, I shall now stop worrying about the world (temporarily), apply herbal oils to it, and eat or drink any remedial recipes anyone has to share.

Sodium in Water

I feel at a loss of words trying to describe the events that have just taken place in Karachi a couple of hours ago. Thankfully, everyone I know is safe and taking all precautions.

Over 150 people confirmed dead in a series of blasts that took place to target Benazir Bhutto as she was close to concluding her procession. Eye witness mention a vehicular explosion that was meant to create a state of chaos while a suicide bomber dashed to the armored vehicle containing the leadership of the Pakistan Peoples Party, luckily for them being stopped midway by security personnel who lost their lives as the man detonated live on TV. Gruesome images of 9/11 were all that one could think about watching something like that happen, helplessly.

Benazir and Karachi have had a long and dark history. During her tenure as prime minister, in the early 90s, Karachi was declared as one the most unsafe cities in the world with bomb blasts and shootouts were so frequent they didn't even feature on front pages of local news papers anymore. Ironically, she was then supporting the Taliban, who are probably in some way behind the events of today, although one cannot be sure since her enemies are quite a bunch.

Sadly, with her hardhitting remarks about the provincial disparities, allowing the US to operate troops within the boundaries of sovereign Pakistan, her stance on Dr A Q Khan and so on, she hasn't created a very hospitable condition for her to be strolling around the city like that.

I have lived for over a year in Karachi, without as much as even seeing someone carry a firearm besides security personnel. It isn't the Karachi it was 13 years ago. I am very proud to have witnessed the fact that security concerns were a thing of a past, existing only for those who had the images of the 90s haunting their minds still. In many ways I have grown to love that city and cherish the people there.

At a time like this, please excuse my blissful ignorance, but I really am compelled to say that I really don't give two hoots about what her presence does to strengthen democracy in Pakistan, but I would really rather sacrifice that by removing her, for the sake of peace, order, safety, and a Karachi that would remain free from a state of constant fear.

On a final note, I continue to be extremely disappointed with Geo TV's coverage of the gruesome images after the blast. A free media should respect it's viewers. No one considers your 'exclusive' coverage important or even appropriate. Please stop.

To a better tomorrow..

Benazir - Giving "Lessons of History"

Never have I sit with a blogger page open for so long, trying to write a post. Writer's block is a horrible horrible thing to happen to anyone, and I normally avoid it by simply not writing unless I am inspired enough. However, this is a compelling post that needed to be made, before Pakistan wakes up in the morning, so while Terry Pratchett did his best to completely switch my mindset over from today's events, I will try regardless to string a few thoughts along. Certainly a book can be written on this topic, but I don't feel quite so generous today! :) So by no means is this a comprehensive analysis.

I was told by a dear friend, actually that I should be careful when imparting my opinions through the blog, since a number of people don't necessarily see the boundary between my opinions and existing facts. So any value judgments herein are my opinion only although I feel that in some ways they represent the views of a typical Pakistani from my age and socioeconomic group.

So here's a brief intro to someone that's stealing a lot of airtime (although allegations of theft move way beyond just airtime) - Benazir Bhutto, popularly known as B B. A lot of people have been asking me how I, as a Pakistani feel about her, especially in the current political context.

As customary, I'll start off with a bit of history. Benazir, is the daughter of an extremely popular prime minister from the 70s, named Zulfiqar Ali Bhutto. In the coup led by General Ziaul Haq, then, Bhutto was given the death penalty for certain alleged crimes. Controversy remains to date on the validity of the offences. In his time, though, Mr Bhutto - aided by his charisma - aided the development of an active civil society, and in doing so became the leader of the largest political party in Pakistan: The Pakistan People's Party (PPP). He is also credited to be the person that first conceived that Pakistan's defenses should include nuclear capabilities and began to pursue means to those ends, including recruitment of scientists including Dr A Q Khan. Furthermore, there is divided opinion on the part he played in the secession of Bangladesh (then East Pakistan) and so on.

Benazir, to say it quite simply, still reaps the benefits of that man's position in the minds of the people of Pakistan. Her political campaign, even her TV ads, begin with images of his speech. On those grounds, she was the natural leader of the country when Ziaul Haq died in a plane crash. She then proceeded to become Prime Minister of the country, the first woman to become head of state of an Islamic country (earned her a statuette at the Madame Tussaud's Wax Museum). She got ousted, and then returned again 4 years after for a second term, which ended with the same fate wherein the President of the time, a member of her own party, disbanded her government on severe corruption charges. Her husband was jailed and she went into self-exile. Reports say that during the course of her second term, some modest estimates of her embezzlement are around USD 1.5 billion plus billions in real estate around the world and in Pakistan, case for which still remain in Pakistan and in a number of other countries including Switzerland.

Following Musharraf's coup in 1999 she began fighting in the name of democracy since a big blow had been delivered to her political career through a provision in the constitution that was passed by the Musharraf government limiting number of terms that one can be elected Prime Minister. However, she struck a lucky hand recently with a potential deal with the Musharraf government which is clearly backed by the US and their plans for 'moderate leadership' in the country. There's also a National Reconciliatory Ordinance that was forwarded by the government, that gives general amnesty to all politicians for pending legal cases from 1986 to 1999. I find that extremely shameful and hope to God that the ordinance is defeated, but details on that shall wait for another time.

Benazir is now due to land in Pakistan in about 10 hours and Karachi has been brought to a high terror alert and complete standstill.

How do I feel about it?

Well, I was collecting some view from some others (again, it's a one-sided tale - she DOES have supporters too!) -

"yeah that liar is coming to pak be careful tomorrow" - Friend in Dubai

"b b is gona be bak , no one showz there guns anymore, no muslim shall participate in suicide bombs anymore, no sindhi will be discriminated anymore, no supreme court will give justice anymore, celebrate :S" - College Friend

"When Zulfiqar Bhutto was around, I would drop all else to support him. I even broke all curfews and joined the masses that supported him when he was overthrown, with a PPP flag and a painted face. And then I supported his daughter, for she was his daughter. Today, I am ashamed I did so and I hope that her supporters realize that her father is long gone and she isn't doing any justice to his legacy" - Dad

But that's not what I am currently thinking about right now. What's still eched in my mind is the images of a press conference she held in Dubai a few hours ago. Cutting through the political gibberish about how she will help the poor and bring employment bla bla, it had some very clear facets of 'Let's impress Uncle Sam' with her support of Musharraf and Pakistan's stance in the War on Terror (She was in Power during the government's support of Talibans during the early 90s). She also voiced views on Dr A Q Khan being handled by the US, who's alleged with claims of nuclear proliferation when every Pakistani Tom, Dick or Harry knows that he was a scapegoat in a government backed plan, which her government was an involved in as any other.

What really surprised me even for someone I clearly don't hold in much high regards, is when she mentioned how unfair things are in Pakistan for people from different provinces, particularly from Sindh and Punjab. She bellowed about how Sindhis were mistreated and the Punjabis were given exclusive rights in all arenas of social, political and economic life. Now, for a second, even if we were to hypothetically believe that this was in fact true, I am appalled by the idea of someone that aims to run for Federal Government, let alone for the highest office to be harboring and fueling such sentiments. Shame!

Times like these one does wish that politicians' political records and stances were more clearly visible to all segments of the voting society (refer to a previous post on voting patterns), although the media is getting better at that job now, and that while giving us all "Lesson of history" today, she'd reflect a moment to learn some of her own. Unfortunately, for every inhabitant of the 15 million strong city of Karachi, the next few hours mean complete shutdown of life and prayer and hope that the overzealous supporters and opponents of Ms Bhutto don't decide to voice their opinions in gunpowder.

It's not the 16% I'm worried about, it's the sad state of the 41% that are immersed in apathy.

It's the Lahore-ian Nights...!

The last three days have actually been typically representative of Lahore and its culture for me.

Event 1: Cricket Match at the Gaddafi Stadium

Courtesy proactivity (and tickets) from Sohaib, I decided to brave the heat (Yes, it's October, but the afternoons are still insanely hot) and the fact that I was fasting and running low on water reserves fast, I decided to head for a few hours of Live Cricket at the amazing Gaddafi Stadium in Lahore. This place is home to some of the fondest memories I have had over the last few years. It's always a refreshing experience to be there during a nerve-wrecking fast paced international match, so my hopes from my first experience watching a Test Match that was doomed to be a draw was indeed a daring one! (For those that don't know much about cricket, a test match is one where the two teams play cricket for like 8 hours a day for 5 days!!)

However, I was pleasantly surprised since the crowd there, watching a resultless match, were still as enthusiastic as ever! Cheering and Chanting hit a whole new dimension when, bored of the match, the spectators took to cheering for every political figure you see on TV (really, for all of them, in most funny and sarcastic manner!). This was followed by a series of chants for Superman! That's right! Superman! Haha.

Anyway, this turned out to be a special experience as I got to see Inzamam-ul-Haq representating Pakistan for the last time in international cricket. Now, there's no love lost between him and I, but I was taken aback by seeing the experience this man was going through. He had worn the flag of the country for 16 years, had started his career in the same ground, been Captain, had been in the winning team of the 1992 World Cup, lost the record for highest scorer in Pakistani cricket (by 2 runs!) and had been in the center of many controversies. And here he was, saying his final words to his fans, as the song 'Stand up for the Champions' played at the back! Very moving. I remember being completely overwhelmed as I had stood saying my final few words after my term at handover at the venue I had been elected last year, having only done what I was doing for 1 year, so I cannot even begin to imagine what this guy went through! Respect to Inzi!


Event 2: All You Can Eat - KFC

I reckon all of you, sometime of the other, have come across the phrase 'Them Lahoris.. They're all about the food!'

Oh My God! While I am Lahori as hell, I swear to you I got a culture shock seeing them rip apart their Zinger Burgers and pieces of fried chicken as soon as it was time to open to final fast of Ramadan. They showed no mercy to the jugs of Coke and the bowls of Ice cream since they knew it would be an entire year before they got to do something like this. Since words do no justice, please take minute to admire the pictorial evidence, below!



Event 3: Chaand Raat, Lahore Style!

Since I am home for Eid and it's a rare occurrence, I was destined (or doomed, if you might) to be involved in the activity this year. So, what is the activity on the night before Eid? Well, it involved all the women in the city hitting the major shopping districts, purchasing like there was no tomorrow, getting Henna on their hands and devouring dozens of glittery glass bangles! So, what does a poor, straight bloak like me do there? .. He drives them around.


Now, I must say that while I do prefer this to what I was doing last year at this time - preparing for a national conference - but I don't know how all these pretty ladies have the staminas to do what they do! Respect to the very pretty ladies!


Tomorrow's Eid, the Islamic holiday, and it is sure to be a competition of who can stomach more sweets and how successfully one can evade all the family kids that ask for the customary money at Eid.

Man, I love this city, I do! :)

Tubbling Down the Dark Rabbit Hole

I started this evening, having been under the weather and in bed all day, with some TV time that resulted in an intense feeling of confusion for me. I then proceeded to get on Facebook and immediately leave all groups that had anything to do with Pakistani politics for one simply reason: I don't understand.

A lot of people have been asking me lately about the state of politics in Pakistan - both the political culture as well as to shed light on some current events. In what I hope to be a series of small, manageable posts, I hope to try and dig deeper into this topic. Again, while there is insane amounts of literature available on the complexities of matters, I will try and keep it simple since the objective really is that - to achieve some simpler understanding of things, for both you and I.

So, this post will mainly focus on some aspects of political culture of the general population in the country since it might serve to put some basic things in perspective later on.

The general population, or public - those not affiliated directly with any political activity, is divided broadly into two categories for this analysis - the rural and the urban. A lot of literature around democracies talks about the connection of education with the ability to vote effectively. Now, one might think that what happens in Pakistan is quite contrary to this theory, since it is the mass of the rural population in the country that votes indulgently, while the urban voting turnout is usually less that 20%. Unfortunately, if anything, the theory is strengthened.. The rural dwellers do vote - just not effectively. Allow me to elaborate.

Pakistan, through its history, has been bound in a series of Patron-Client relationships that stem from the feudal system that still marks a large number of villages in the country. From some primary research I have been able to do over the years, it's quite simple the way it works: every village has an influential. The candidate for the Public Office comes to this candidate, gives him a certain incentive, usually in the form of political favors, and the influential ensures that the villagers vote for that candidate. What's interesting to see, is that - in most cases - little or no coercion is used by the influential. All he does is gives these people 'a valid reason' to vote for the party, so the villager thinks that he/she is making an independent or family or clan based decision on their vote, all the while serving the interest of his local elite, who will, in turn give him/her access to the government, should a need arise.

Now, the urban people. Most of them are semi-educated at least and belong to the middle class of society. These people, more often than not, do not vote. There reason is quite simple: There is no suitable candidate. In other words, these individuals are exercising their right to not vote i.e. to abstain. Most of them have a valid point since they barely any parties seem to represent their interests. At the same time politics is simply concerned an arena for 'dirty people' hence excluding any 'good' candidates entirely. Political apathy is not the cause, but the result in this situation.

Perhaps what could be a useful exercise is similar to a system being used in some Western countries wherein the ballots have an 'Abstain' option and at the end of elections, the stats on percentage of abstentions is reported publicly to show the strength or weakness of the mandate of the winner. For now, our date systems are not robust enough to show this with any level of accuracy.

So that, in a nutshell, are the very basic dynamics of the political culture in the country. Of course there are numerous other issues that add complexity - devolution system to local governments, the importance of foreign interests (mainly linked to the US), the involvement of the military and so on. Some of these I would write about as I continue.

Pity!

Yesterday I got lost driving in my own city! :(